- Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Leg
- Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Skin
- Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Windshield
Carbon is a super material for bike frames, but its weak spot is that it doesn’t take impact well. A frame can be cracked or otherwise compromised without showing a thing. While it is another useful tool for a proper carbon fiber facility, because of the thin materials used on all bike frames and components, you can most likely visually see any cracks developing if. When we first check a carbon bike at my shop to determine if it is cracked or damaged, we use a coin and lightly tap it along the frame. A normal frame should have a full sound when you tap it. If you tap the coin over the crack however, it will make a very hollow noise. It is a very distinct noise. Posted: Apr 8, 2016 at 12:34 Quote: I first read on another forum this week that if the crack is not too bad, it is possible to have it repaired. I have a rim that is cracked / 'dented' (folded in.
Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Leg
| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 9:52 | Quote | | I was insepcting one of my frames this morning, and to my dismay I found what appears to be a centimetre long hairline stress crack on the weld between the headtube and the downtube. I than came on to the computer and was looking up stress cracks, and noticed that there are such things as paint cracks - but I couldn't find how to determine what is what? (my frame is aluminium by the way) So does anybody know the difference in determining whether it is a real crack or just a paint crack? Help would be much appreciated. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:22 | Quote | A paint crack can only occur when subjected to extremes of temperature. That is, without bending the metal. If you know your frame has been to hot or cold, that could be why. If you know it has been at a constant temperature then its most likely to be a stress crack.
The only way to be sure is to strip the paint |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:24 | Quote | | A neat trick is to wet the area. Take some talcum powder and cover the area in it. Then wipe all the talc off. If it's a crack the talc will stay inside a little. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:26 | Quote | | DavidMakalaster wrote: | | A neat trick is to wet the area. Take some talcum powder and cover the area in it. Then wipe all the talc off. If it's a crack the talc will stay inside a little. |
Whether or not it is paint or metal. In raw metal I would agree, but that would happen with any crack. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:45 | Quote | | MadMike2007 wrote: | | DavidMakalaster wrote: | | A neat trick is to wet the area. Take some talcum powder and cover the area in it. Then wipe all the talc off. If it's a crack the talc will stay inside a little. |
Whether or not it is paint or metal. In raw metal I would agree, but that would happen with any crack. |
Nope. Been doing it for years. In fact every shop in our area does it now after learning it from me. It is a common trick with climbers for their gear. It's been right every one of the countless times I've used it. Paint is too thin. It will not seep into a paint crack the way it does on a metal crack. Try it sometime instead of just theorizing youngun'. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:50 | Quote | | sand 'er down with some 220 grit sand paper, only way to get a real good look at it, if you plan on gettin it fixed you're just going to have to sand 'er down anyways...if not, put a sticker over it LoL |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 10:58 | Quote | | 220 grit? I wouldnt go any lower than a 320 grit for sure. I've repainted many frames, and 220 will get it done faster but if you like your frame and don't want to sand off the metal I'd go with 320 bare minimum |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:00 | Quote | See if you can take a nice high res macro shot of the area and post it.
Quite often paint cracks are the first sign of stress failure. All metals are flexible to a certain degree. If you've flexed the snot outta your frame, cracks in the paint will be visible before the aluminum failure is.
It's probably cracked though. Lots of bikes are. Old mechanics trick; if you don't want to work on some haggard bike, you just inspect the welds for a few minutes until you find a crack. Works nearly every time.
Another good indication:
If your headset is creaking, and it won't stop no matter how much you adjust it or clean it or service it, you're frame is cracked. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:03 | Quote | | Then again its not worth the risk of personal injury to ride it like that, (if it is actually cracked)... i wouldnt bother with it and just buy a new one...unless you like un-expected catastrophic failure... good on ya |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:10 | Quote | | I work in a fab shop in Nisku. Part of our operation is inspecting our product. We use a Magnetic Particle Injection technology to test for cracks. If you're serious about finding out about your frame crack, let me know. I could make arrangements to have your frame inspected. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:49 | Quote | | ^^ since that is in my backyard pretty much? Any price estimates? |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:52 | Quote | My camera is broken- so I doubt I can get a good pic I'll try when I get home.. really I'm tempted to just keep riding it anyways.
Pretty much, when I scratch my frame - the scratches are brown for some reason - white frame-silver aluminium - somehow they turn brown. It looks like just another scratch except for the location.
But the frame is 2 years old, and I've been hucking off 10+plus drops and racing - I wouldn't be surprized if it's dying. Luckily it is still under warranty. But it might also have been exposed to some pretty hot temps - I store my bike leaning over a heater - not the smartest but it's what I have.. and it's definately been out in some minus 30 and 40 weather. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 11:58 | Quote | | how does the crack appear? whith the weld, or perpendicular to it? if its with the weld beads, its possibly a stress crack, but if its perpendicular (across the weld) you probably just have a paint crack. but we dont really know enough information to tell you anything. just take it to a good bike shop. |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 12:02 | Quote | there's no good bike shops in the area.. and the shop that I have my warranty with burned down and won't be back up till spring
But it runs aross the weld beads- so perpindicular.
Like I said I'll try and get a picture.
I was just wondering mainly if there were any tests - like I know Carbon Fibre has the tapping test to tell if it's a real crack or not.. but it sounds like aluminum does not |
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| Posted: Nov 7, 2007 at 12:04 | Quote | | aluminum does not have a specific test although u can get it x ray tested. and its an odd material, im pretty sure that its just the paint, but just go easy on it until your shop gets up and running, and if you have a good warranty send it back. |
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by Chad Grochowina
Carbon fibre is no longer the exotic material that it once was. The cycling industry has embraced its use with open arms and manufactures almost everything with it these days. With proper care, a carbon fibre bike with carbon parts can be a dream to ride and last a long time. When used for how it’s intended, carbon fibre has the upper hand in performance for most situations. Yes, it does occasionally break, and not all carbon fibre is created equal, but no other material can be manipulated the way carbon can. One thing that does ring true with all carbon components: they need to be inspected routinely for cracks or damage.
You should inspect your bike after every wash, after a creak develops, and definitely after a crash. Look closely for scratches, especially anything deep or through the paint. With a dollar coin, tap on any suspect area and listen for a change in sound. A normal “tap” sound will become a dull thud when the carbon is broken. Gently push on the suspect area to feel if it’s softer than the surrounding area. For dual-suspension mountain bikes, in addition to the regular frame inspection, look for cracks around pivots and bearings. Also check underneath the down tube for impact cracks, commonly caused by rocks flying up and smacking the down tube.
“After a crash, a shifter that rotates on the bar can eat into it, and even saw through it over time.”
Once a season, you should perform a more thorough inspection. If your bike has taken a hard hit or been involved in a crash, a good check over is imperative to ensure your safety. Pull out your seatpost and look for cracks around the clamping area. Remove your bar tape, and inspect around the shifter clamps for any scoring or scratching. After a crash, a shifter that rotates on the bar can eat into it, and even saw through it over time. The same is true for mountain bikes as shifters and brake levers often spin on the bar in a crash. Remove the bar from the stem, and inspect the clamping area for any cracks or blemishes.
Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Skin
If your fork is made with a carbon steerer tube, a seasonal inspection is a must. Again, look for scoring or scratching around the steerer. This procedure is even more important if you’ve been riding with a loose headset, which can cut its way through a steerer.
If you have carbon wheels, they deserve a look, too. If they are still spinning true and the spoke tension feels even, they are most likely OK. Wheels that come out of true from a crash or hard impact need to have an experienced wheel builder look at them. There are a number of things that can go wrong that aren’t necessarily obvious to the untrained eye.
Tell If Carbon Fiber Bike Cracked Windshield
As with steel, titanium, and aluminum, carbon fibre repair is commonplace these days. Repairs are usually reasonably priced (that is, much cheaper then a crashreplacement price offered from many manufacturers). If the repair receives some paint, you’ll never know that it was ever broken. (That does open up a whole other can of worms in the used bike marketplace, but that’s another story.) Your favourite bike shop should be able to steer you in the right direction for getting your frame repaired.